xxxx Pierre Moncuit Blanc De Blancs Hugues De Coulmet
The NV (2008) Brut Blanc de Blancs Hugues de Coulmet is absolutely gorgeous in this vintage. It shows fabulous delineation, clarity and precision in the trademark Moncuit house style that puts a big emphasis on focus. This is simply a fabulous Champagne for the money. The Hugues de Coulmet is 100% Chardonnay vinified and aged in steel, with full malo, bottled with 9 grams of dosage. This is Lot # L204106. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.
Pierre Moncuit is a great source for reasonably priced Blanc de Blancs. One of the features of the wines is that they are all single-vintage wines, even when not officially declared. These are often some of the more accessible round wines within the context of Chardonnay from Mesnil. All of the wines are vinified and aged in stainless steel, with full malolactic fermentation.
by Antonio Galloni, Issue #197, November 2011
--The Wine Advocate
This rich, focused Champagne offers a core of pain d'épices spices, with flavors of apple tart, lemon zest, graham cracker and a touch of crystallized honey. Very elegant, with a restrained energy and a lingering finish. Drink now through 2021. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. –AN
June 15, 2011
(made from vines in Sezanne, just south of Mesnil): Pale yellow. Fresh pear and peach on the nose, with notes of chalk, quinine and jasmine adding complexity. Nervy and precise on the palate, displaying very good definition to its tangy citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Tight but in no way hard, finishing with very good clarity and cut. This bracing Champagne would be great with sashimi or raw shellfish.
By Josh Raynolds
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Dec 11
--Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
NV Blanc de Blancs "Hugues de Coulmet": The democrat from Sézanne, for this comes from 11.7 acres of Chardonnay growing in the commune of Sézanne to the south-southwest of Mesnil. Yearly production averages 50,000 bottles.
In 1889 Pierre Moncuit and his wife, Odile Moncuit-Delos, established the house of Champagne Pierre Moncuit. Since 1977, Nicole Moncuit has managed the vineyards and made the wine, while her brother Yves has managed the sales. More recently, Nicole’s daughter Valérie has been actively assisting in the cellar.
Mesnil lies smack in the middle of the Côte des Blancs and is its most celebrated village, in no small part because of the vintages of Salon Champagne and the single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil, owned, of course, by Krug. The wines of Mesnil are known above all for steely elegance and minerality, and those from chez Pierre Moncuit—which has some of the oldest vines along the entire Côte—superbly reflect these qualities.
The house farms 20 parcels totaling 37 acres in the grand cru-rated vineyards surrounding the village. These vineyards face east as they climb the Côte’s chalk-infused flank. The majority of Moncuit’s vines are 45-years or older, and two parcels, used in the best years for the vintage-dated Cuvée Nicole Moncuit, are just shy of their centennial birthday. In a region known for replanting vines before they reach their third decade to ensure vigorous production, these old vines represent a rare patrimony.
Another unusual bent in the Moncuit way of doing things is that no reserve wine is used in its production. All of its wines are made from a single year, regardless if they are labeled non-vintage or labeled with a vintage. The non-vintage wines spend a minimum of three years on their lees before disgorgement; the vintage wines spend between six and eight years on their lees. After disgorgement, the former age another three months before release while the latter spend another six months in the house’s cellar before going to market.
In order to keep focus on purity and minerality, no wood is used during the élevage. Malolactic fermentation is the norm here. At bottling, the usual dosage runs toward 8 grams of sugar per liter, in contrast to the more standard 12 grams employed by the majority of the Côte’s growers. Annual production averages 180,000 bottles, or 15,000 12-pack cases, and includes roughly 10,000 bottles of rosé Champagne. No business is conducted with négociants either to purchase or to sell juice.
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