2007 Jayer Gilles Haut Cotes De Beaune Blanc
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87 BH
Note: from a 50-50 blend of pinot blanc and chardonnay; 50% new oak
Producer note: Gilles Jayer calls 2007 a vintage "where it was absolutely necessary to wait to pick. Despite a very early and excellent start to the season, July and August were terrible and most if not all of the advancement to the growing season was essentially lost. We did not begin picking until the 7th of September and picked slowly and carefully over a 17 day period. The crop was basically clean, sugars were reasonable if not high and other than losing about 30% of quantity compared to a normal harvest, I liked what we brought in. As to the wines, they're classic in temperament and in terms of terroir and should drink well for 10 to 15 years, perhaps a bit longer." Last year when I had called for an appointment to taste the '06s, Jayer explained that none of his wines had finished even half of their malos so I did not visit. However, on this visit I had a chance to taste the now in-bottle '06s and they too are reviewed below. And as usual, Jayer said that he intends to bottle the '07s without fining or filtration as were the '06s. Note: the cellars at this address are very deep and always cold and thus the malos are long and slow. This means that they often finish late and wines are virtually always heavily reduced late in their élevage, which makes judging them a challenge. Tasting note: Bright fruit aromas trimmed in noticeable wood merges into round and rich yet nicely precise flavors that are wrapped around a firm acid spine and citrus-infused finish that is quite crisp. There is more wood here than I can personally sign-up for but there is no denying that this is quite stylish. Tasted: Jul 01, 2009 Score: 87 Drink: 2010+ - Comments: Outstanding Issue 35 --Allen Meadows' Burghound.com
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